I know a place where whelk shells the size of marsh rabbits lay in wait, their colors reflecting the cool morning sand.

I know a place where two hundred years of history culminate in an apex 163 feet above sea level, the sea itself just a short walk away. Where diamonds sparkle in the summer sun and cicadas thrum in the yaupon bushes, where salt saturates every surface.

I know a place where an abandoned village evokes a time gone by, and an old Coast Guard Station reigns in white. Where there is only one road, but many adventures.

And I know that you, too, can come to know this place. And love it.

The ferry to Cape Lookout leaves Harker’s Island every thirty minutes in the summer. Call ahead to reserve a spot, and pack sun protection, a water bottle, and food. Park at the Harker’s Island Visitors Center, check in, and climb aboard.

On the way to the Cape, you might spot a pod of dolphins or wild horses on Shackleford Banks. Your knowledgeable captain will point them out in his Down East brogue, while the wind whips your hair silly. Twenty minutes later, you’ll disembark near the Cape Lookout Lighthouse and Keeper’s Quarters.

The Keeper’s Quarters, a white structure reminiscent of an old farmhouse, contains a museum with displays about the island’s history. A Park Service volunteer will answer questions and take your picture in front of the lighthouse – say Cape! And don’t forget to touch the lighthouse for good luck. Unfortunately, you can’t climb it right now. Reconstruction of the inside steps will soon begin, so watch the Park Service website for updates.

Next, stroll the boardwalk to the bathrooms and visitors center, where you can buy supplies and refill your bottle with slightly salty water. From here, follow the boardwalk to reach the beach.

Cape Lookout’s oceanside beach stretches for twenty miles of undeveloped seashore. Expect ancient shipwrecks unveiled with the tides, flocks of fishermen, and unusual sea debris mixed with a kaleidoscope of shells. Crash, crunch, whoosh – waves, sand, wind. Wilderness.

Too far to walk? Four wheel drive vehicles are available to cruise the island in style! You can also get a permit to bring your own vehicle over, including campers. Ride on the beach or the sandy road that runs behind the dunes, from the cabins to the old village.

Cabins?

Yes, you can stay at the Cape. Cabin rentals have hookups for generators and bunk beds – they fill up fast, so reserve early. With its International Dark Sky designation, Cape Lookout is a magical place to observe the stars – you can see the Milk Way, the planets, and other galaxies.

The old village?

Once upon a time, local families kept summer houses on the Cape, both within the forested section and closer to the water. When the Park Service condemned these buildings in the 1970s, some were moved off-island, but others still sit within Cape Lookout Historic Village, near the old Coast Guard Station. Explore on foot to find hidden gems.

Then wrap up your trip with a swim, but beware of Cape Lookout’s ocean currents; there are no lifeguards. A safer experience can be found on the backside of the island, in the calm shallows of the bight.

On your way back to the ferry, stop by the Keeper’s Quarters again to ask about that weird thing you found on the beach. Was it a mermaid’s purse or a whelk egg case? The volunteer will know.

Here comes your ferry – time for the breezy ride home.

And a bit of advice: if you’re passing through Beaufort before six o’clock, stop for dinner at Donna’s Deli, located within the Piggly Wiggly. If there’s a better meat & three to be found in Carteret County, I’ll lick a mackerel. Don’t know what a meat & three is? It’s time to find out. And while you’re there, listen for that Down East brogue and the sound of waves, still crashing in your ears.